Where should I start with the new Patek Philippe releases for 2023? With the popular Aquanaut? Or with the mightily impressive, complicated timepieces? The Swiss brand announced a total of 17 different models, which is a staggering number of novelties. We’re picking some highlights to bring you up to speed with the most notable Patek Philippe releases for this year.
The New Patek Philippe Aquanaut Models for 2023
Let’s start off with the celebrated Aquanaut line. Patek Philippe announced three new rose gold models for 2023, two of which are intended as women’s watches, while the other is targeted at men. That said, the lines are definitely blurred when it comes to their sizes. The first of the three models is the Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar ref. 5261R. This new model is wrapped in a 39.9-mm rose gold case that’s a mere 10.9 mm thick. The beautiful blue dial hosts rose gold Arabic numerals, month and date displays in the lower portion of the dial, and a moon phase indicator at the top of the hour. Lastly, a date window is neatly nestled in the 6 o’clock position. Patek pairs the watch with a matching blue rubber strap, making this new Aquanaut quite the looker. The list price is CHF 52,000 (approx. $57,000).
A second noteworthy Aquanaut comes in the form of the 5968R-001. This automatic chronograph will definitely be one of Patek Philippe’s most popular premieres. The watch features a 42.2 × 11.9-mm rose gold case and comes with a gorgeous dark brown dial and matching brown rubber strap. Inside the rose gold case, you’ll find the automatic caliber CH 28-520 C. This flyback chronograph movement also powers the existing stainless steel and white gold 5968 models. This is a clever addition to the Aquanaut Chronograph lineup and will be available for $75,700.
The third and last Aquanaut model can be found under the reference number 5268/200R. This timepiece has a 38.8 × 8.5-mm rose gold case and a bezel decorated with no less than 48 diamonds. The watch features a lovely mocha brown dial and matching rubber strap. The price point is CHF 45,500 (approx. $50,000).
The New Patek Philippe Grand Complications
Moving on now to the new Grand Complications for 2023. This collection is where you’ll find Patek’s highly complicated pieces. The latest technical wizardry starts with the new Grandmaster Chime 6300GR executed in a combination of white gold and rose gold. This reference is joining the white gold models already firmly seated in the brand’s portfolio. The blend of golds looks spectacular in tandem with the opaline brown dials, but this timepiece is more than just a pretty face. The watch features 20 different complications displayed via a double-sided case that measures a whopping 47.7 mm across and 16.07 mm thick. Among the 20 complications are five acoustic functions, including two patented world exclusives: an alarm sounding the programmed time and a date-repeater striking the date on demand. It’s a majestic creation that showcases the incredible skill of the Patek Philippe watchmakers. The price for this unique piece is only available on request, as with all Grand Complications.
The second new Grand Complications is the impressive ref. 5316/50P-001. This piece features a 40.2-mm platinum case that comes with a blue metalized dégradé sapphire dial that rewards you with glimpses of the complicated movement inside. The caliber R TO 27 PS QR boasts a minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, and retrograde date. That last complication takes center stage on the dial, with the day and month indications flanked on the almost full circle serving as the date display. The magic of the sapphire dial is that you can see the different discs turning, so you’ll get a great view of the mind-blowing intricacies.
The third Grand Complications model is my favorite, and that’s the ref. 5178G-012. This self-winding minute repeater features a 40 × 10.53-mm white gold case and comes equipped with one of the most beautiful dials you will ever see. The hand-guilloché pattern on the dial is finished with transparent blue Grand Feu enamel and creates a unique color and design. The extraordinary blue dial is graced with elegantly executed Breguet numerals, making it seem like a “normal” watch. But the caliber R 27 PS is a beautiful minute repeater movement that will undoubtedly sound stellar.
The fourth and last Grand Complications is the ref. 5531G-001. This distinctive 40.2-mm World Time Minute Repeater was given a dial that tells a story. The cloisonné Grand Feu enamel dial depicts a Belle Époque-era steamship on Lake Geneva. Talk about special dials! The caliber R 27 HU powering the watch offers both a minute repeater function and a world time function. It’s a combination that we don’t see often and combined with the unique dial, this is a great final addition to the Grand Complications collection.
The Complications Collection
Turning now to the Complications collection, the home of less complicated, but no less impressive, complicated timepieces. Patek Philippe announced two new complicated timepieces for this collection for 2023. The first is the Calatrava Travel Time watch with the reference number 5224R-001. This brand-new and very stylish piece features a 42 × 9.85-mm rose gold case. It has a rather thin profile that makes this piece ultra-wearable, and it boasts a blue dial and blue leather strap with contrasting stitching to boot. The automatic caliber 31-260 PS FUS 24H is operated entirely with the crown, i.e., the 24-hour hand for the second time zone is not adjusted by pushers, but rather also using the crown. Combined with the unique 24-hour dial layout, this is one of the most interesting Patek Philippe pieces of the year.
The second Complications model arrives in the form of the ref. 5905R-010 in rose gold. This automatic flyback chronograph complete with annual calendar comes inside a rose gold 42 × 14.2-mm case that houses the caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H. Sporting a sunburst blue dial and blue leather strap, the timepiece has a vibrant presence. The dial features apertures for the day, date, and month on the upper half of the dial. You will find the 60-minute counter on the lower half. This is a nice touch, as we mostly see 30-minute counters on high-end chronographs. The white central chronograph hand is the crowning jewel, contrasting perfectly with the energetic dial. As with the Grand Complications collection, prices for watches in the Complications collection are only available on request.
The Calatrava Collection
Calatrava’s classically-styled collection is expanded with three sporty 40 × 9.17-mm white gold models. They depart from the traditional style and have a much sportier flair than we are used to from the Calatrava line, but we did see the aesthetic before in 2020 when the brand launched a similar model in blue to celebrate the opening of their new facilities. The watches are powered by the automatic time-and-date caliber 26-330 S C. The watches all feature black dials with carbon fiber patterns and either red (ref. 6007G-010), blue (ref. 6007G-011), or yellow (ref. 6007G-001) accents. The three models will be available for $37,850 apiece.
The Pilot Style Watch Line
The last collection I’d like to discuss is Patek Philippe’s pilot-style line of timepieces. The brand has unveiled two new colors for the 42 × 13.5-mm white gold Complications collection ref. 5924G. The combination of a pointer date, travel-time complication, and flyback chronograph is now available with a sunburst blue or khaki-green dial and matching leather straps. The characteristic design of the watch, with its oversized pushers and large numerals, stands out immediately. It might be an acquired taste, but it oozes that classic pilot’s watch style. You’ll have to part with CHF 64,000 (approx. $69,500) to call one of these timepieces your own.
And that wraps up our overview of the new Patek Philippe models for 2023. It’s an extensive line of new releases that confirm that Patek Philippe is one of the best, most prolific watch brands out there.
